designed to remove the hands on answering of questions by our helpful sales
team.. but to allow you to get answers from the comfort of your own home!

Cleaning and Sealing
What are the advantages of sealing my pavers?
How long do I need to wait before I clean and seal my pavers?

DevonStoneTM Collection by EP Henry
What are the advantages of DevonStone over natural stone?
I’d like my DevonStone pavement to have a sheen. Can I seal it?
Can I use DevonStone on my driveway?

DevonStoneTM Collection by EP Henry
Why do EP Henry Pavers make the ideal pavement?
Why are they called interlocking concrete pavers?
Does the color go all the way through the paver?
How do I determine how much modified stone base material and sand I’ll need?
Can EP Henry Pavers be used for my driveway?
How do pavers compare with patterned or stamped concrete?
What are the advantages of sealing my pavers?
Will weeds grow between my pavers?
What can I do if my pavers are stained or damaged?
What can you tell me about snow removal on my pavers?
Can I remove moss or mold from my pavers?
How about using EP Henry Pavers on my pool deck?

EP Henry Wall Systems
What type of footing is required for EP Henry Systems?
How tall can I build my segmental retaining wall?
What do I use to adhere the caps on my retaining wall?
What if I want to build a freestanding wall?
When should I involve an engineer in the design of my wall?

---

Cleaning and Sealing

What are the advantages of sealing my pavers?
Sealers offer three advantages: they help resist stains, enhance the color, and bind
the sand in the joints to make it difficult for weeds to germinate. Sealers, however,
are topical products and must reapplied regularly (generally every 3-5 years)

(Back to top)

How long do I need to wait before I clean and seal my pavers?
As a rule of thumb we suggest waiting 3-6 months. This allows any efflorescence to
come out and weather away naturally. If you have a lot of rainfall in the spring,
3 months should suffice. If your installation was done in June and we have a dry
summer, you should probably wait at least 6 months. The real test is a visual
inspecition of the pavers: if efflorescence is not that heavy or noticeable you can
proceed to clean and seal.

(Back to top)

DevonStoneTM Collection by EP Henry

What are the advantages of DevonStone over natural stone?
DevonStone is more uniform in thickness and in length and width dimensions, making
installation faster and easier. Many natural stones also have inherent fractures, making
them susceptible to cracking and spalling in freeze/thaw conditions.

(Back to top)

I’d like my DevonStone pavement to have a sheen. Can I seal it?
Yes, you can. Sealilng will enhance colors and may prevent staining. If you choose to
seal, do so a minimum of 60 to 90 days after completion of installation. Product should
be cleaned prior to sealing.

(Back to top)

Can I use DevonStone on my driveway?
NO. DevonStone is not suitable for any vehicular application.

(Back to top)

EP Henry Paver

Why do EP Henry Pavers make the ideal pavement?
Our pavers are the ideal product for freeze/thaw environments. Proper installation of
the product results in a pavement that is rigid, yet flexible. The joints between pavers
allow the walkway, driveway, patio, etc. to move without cracking. In addition, they can
be "unzipped" to allow for repairs or access to utilities. Unlike asphalt, pavers are
virtually maintenance-free. By definition, concrete pavers have a minimum compressive
strength of 8,000 psi (about 3 times stronger than regular poured concrete) and a
maximum water absorption rate of 5%.

(Back to top)

Why are they called interlocking concrete pavers?
It is the system that makes them interlocking concrete pavers, not necessarily the
shape. When installed properly, the combination of the pavers, bedding sand, edge
restraint and joint sand causes them to interlock, allowing them to work as a unified,
flexible pavement.

(Back to top)

Does the color go all the way through the paver?
Most EP Henry Pavers (other than Coventry® and Bullnose) are manufactured with
the Durafacing™ process which concentrates an extra dosage of cement and pigment
on the wear layer. You'll never wear through this layer over the lifetime of the
installation. Our non-Durafaced pavers have pigment throughout.

(Back to top)

How do I determine how much modified stone base material and sand I'll need?
As a rule of thumb, use a minimum of 3”-5” of base material for walkways, 6”-8” for
patios, and 8”-12” for driveways. The sand setting bed should be 1” thick. One ton
of modified stone or sand will cover 100 square feet at 2” thick. Using a 10' x 10'
(100 square feet) patio as an example, you would need 1/2 ton of sand for the setting
bed (1” thick) and 3 tons of modified stone for the base (6” thick). You'll need some
additional sand (about 5%) or two bags of EP Henry PolySand for the joints between
the pavers.

(Back to top)

Can EP Henry Pavers be used for my driveway?
Absolutely! For residential driveways, 8” to 12”of compacted base material is
recommended. A standard 2-3/8”thick paver can be used for light vehicular (cars and
pickup trucks) applications. A herringbone pattern is most suitable in these situations.

(Back to top)

How do pavers compare with patterned or stamped concrete?
Patterned concrete pavements are merely slabs of concrete that are embossed with
a pattern. Therefore, they are prone to the same problems with freeze/thaw cycles,
namely cracking and spalling. We GUARANTEE that EP Henry Pavers won't crack or
spall; you cannot obtain a similar guarantee for stamped concrete. Stamped concrete
requires expansion joints every 10 feet or so, which are very distracting in some
patterns. Also, unlike EP Henry Pavers, patterned concrete pavements don't allow
access to underground utilities or the ability to make repairs. At virtually the same price
per square foot installed, EP Henry Pavers are clearly a superior choice.

(Back to top)

What are the advantages of sealing my pavers?
Sealers offer three advantages: they help resist stains, enhance the color, and bind
the sand in the joints to make it difficult for weeds to germinate. Sealers, however,
are topical products and must be reapplied regularly (generally every 3-5 years).
Only water-based sealers can be used in NJ and NYC. Cleaning & Sealing Product
Information

(Back to top)

Will weeds grow between my pavers?
Weeds and grass result from seeds or spores blowing into, and lodging in, the joint
sand.This can be minimized by adding SandLock to your sand or by sealing the pavers
or mixing a pre-emergent granular weed killer into the joint sand. If weeds do appear,
a spot vegetation killer (such as Round-Up™) can be used and will not damage the
pavers.

(Back to top)

What can I do if my pavers are stained or damaged?
One of the advantages of pavers is that individual units can be removed and replaced
in these situations. Remove the sand around the paver and then use two flat head
screwdrivers to lift the paver out. Rocking the paver gently in a back-and-forth motion
will facilitate removal.

(Back to top)

What can you tell me about snow removal and my pavers?
Pavers can be plowed and shoveled just like asphalt or concrete pavements. In fact,
the chamfered edges and joints around the pavers promote melting of snow and ice.
A plow with a rubber edge is recommended. Do not use sharp objects to chop ice as
they can damage the pavers. Both sodium chloride (rock salt) and calcium chloride
will remove snow and ice but can harm the pavers (and any concrete surface for that
matter). EnvironMelt is an effective and safe de-icer for your paving stone installation.

(Back to top)

Can I remove moss or mold from my pavers?
Try Clorox liquid bleach diluted in water (10 parts water to one part Clorox). Be careful
not to get it on other plant material. Keep in mind that there is nothing that will keep it
from growing back if it's in a shady, damp area. For a more permanent solution, you
will need to correct the moisture and shade problems that are encouraging the moss
or mold.

(Back to top)

How about using EP Henry Pavers on my pool deck?
Not only do EP Henry Pavers make an attractive pool deck, but they also provide a
slip-resistant walking surface. Pavers actually are better than poured concrete around
pools from the standpoint that the joints will take on moisture and leave the pavement
cooler under foot. Like all products that are used outdoors, lighter colors will tend to
stay cooler as they reflect the sunlight. Furthermore, our Bullnose Pavers make a nice
pool coping. Make sure the base material around the pool is well compacted before
installing pavers. Safety covers can also be installed over pavers with the use of
special anchors.

(Back to top)

EP Henry Wall Systems

What type of footing is required for EP Henry Wall Systems?
A compacted stone base is required for all segmental retaining walls. This varies in
thickness from a minimum of 4” for our Garden Walls to a minimum of 6” for our larger
wall systems. Generally, the higher the wall, the thicker the base. You do not have to
dig down below the frost line.

(Back to top)

How tall can I build my segmental retaining wall?
Height limitations without Geogrid for all of our retaining wall products are listed within
the catalog on the corresponding product pages. Designed and installed properly,
segmental retaining walls can be built in excess of thirty feet high! Consult with a
qualified contractor or engineer to see what may be required for your project.

(Back to top)

What do I use to adhere the caps on my retaining wall?
Use a high strength, flexible concrete adhesive, such as Paver Bond, to affix your wall
cap.

(Back to top)

What if I want to build a freestanding wall?
No problem! EP Henry developed Double Sided Coventry® Wall to increase your
creative options for walls that are functional and look great. Available in two heights
and five lengths - like our original Coventry® Wall System - it’s perfect for wing walls,
knee walls, sitting areas and more.

(Back to top)

When should I involve an engineer in the design of my wall?
We recommend the use of a professional engineer on projects with taller walls
(above 4’) or with unusual site conditions (steep slopes, parking lot or structure
behind the wall). Local building codes may also necessitate the use of a professional
engineer for walls above a certain height.

We can provide design charts and tables with generalized engineering solutions for
some of our retaining wall systems. Each situation is unique, however, and specific
evaluation will provide the most accurate solution.

(Back to top)